Sunday 30 October 2011

Crater Lake day hike

Now that we are over the culture shock, and know the places around our home quite well it is time to explore other parts of Kenya. Jaakko's boy scouts were going for a weekend camp out at Crater Lake near Lake Naivasha and we decided to join them for a day to have a chance to go for a hike.

A fault line splits Kenya into two separating eastern and western parts of the country from one another. This is called Rift Valley, and it is part of the Great Rift Valley. The Great Rift Valley is continuous geographic trench, approximately 6,000 kilometres (3,700 mi) in length, that runs from northern Syria in Southwest Asia to central Mozambique. In some places in Kenya Rift Valley is up to 100 km wide, while it reaches its narrowest point just north of Nairobi at 45 km wide. Just when we though we escaped earthquakes and volcano's of the Pacific Northwest, we find Rift Valley is home to thirty active and semi-active volcanoes and countless hot springs along its length.

Crater Lake is right next to Lake Naivasha, some 110km from our home. The trip there was nice, except for the traffic. The road was in good condition, and seeing the Rift Valley from high up as we descended on escarpment was truly magnificent. Too bad really slow trucks everywhere resulted in constant overtaking and Matatu's and buses driving all over the road.




Eland's and Zebra's in the background

Giraffe family, and we got really close


Taru watching buffalo's

Jaakko and cactus tree



Crater Lake is a small lake in an old volcanic crater, like the name suggests, and it was possible to hike around. The views from the cliffs around it were breathtaking, and we saw a lot of animals. In addition to multiple birds, we saw a hippo, giraffes, zebras, antilopes, elands, warthogs, buffalos, monkeys and dikdiks. The boy scouts had asked one of the local guides to escort us, and he was really knowledgeable in plants and animals. We learned a lot.

On the way back we stopped on the shore of Lake Naivasha and saw millions of Flamingos. Lake Naivasha is famous for them, and for a reason. The lake is huge, but it looked pretty pink.

It was a great hike, and we'll definitely go to other places soon. There so much to see, if only the traffic was a little better...


Tuesday 25 October 2011

Security in Nairobi

I guess Nairobi has never been the most safe city, but it has apparently gotten a lot better over the years. In the 1970s, when the term ‘Nairobbery’ was coined, the city was notorious for theft and violence, which continued right up to the last decade. The violence after the presidential election in 2008 is still fresh in people's minds and extensive coverage is given in the news to the international criminal court case on the post-election violence.

Don't get me wrong. There's still a lot of crime in Nairobi, like in any other city. Everyone has a story to tell or at least knows someone who´s been a victim of crime. Street mugging and petty theft (e.g. pick-pocketing) is common and more serious crimes like car jackings and armed robberies daily. Often you are taken as a hostage and forced to go to an ATM machine to withdraw the daily maximum from your account, as the time resets at midnight you may be kept until you can withdraw another daily maximum and then released. The key is that do as you are told and do not resist the hijackers. If you comply, there is every chance that you will be released unharmed.

If you kept alert, stayed away from the less common areas and avoided driving around late in the evening chances are you'll not become a victim.

Yesterday things took a turn to the worse when 2 separate grenade attacks took place in downtown Nairobi, only about 100m apart from one another. In both cases a hand grenade was thrown into the public resulting in a few casualties and large amount of injuries. Although no one has been arrested yet, there´s speculation that it is the works of Al Shabaab, a terrorist group of militants fighting to overthrow the government of Somalia and with ties to Al Qaeda. The attacks are suspected to be in response to Kenya joining forces with the Somali Trasitional Federal Government to help flush Al Shabaab militants out of their strongholds in Somalia and Kenyan army attacking Al Shabaab on Somalian soil. The background for this was the abductions of a British tourist, a disabled French woman who has since died in captivity and two Spanish aid workers near the Somalian border, but on Kenyan side. The impact of these abductions to Kenyan economy that is heavily dependent on tourism is understandably serious.

 The US embassy in Nairobi warned a few days back of an "imminent threat" of attacks possibly targeting foreigners, one week after Kenyan forces crossed into Somalia. The embassy cited "credible information of an imminent threat of terrorist attacks directed at prominent Kenyan facilities and areas where foreigners are known to congregate, such as malls and night clubs." Right on the money, except the areas were not frequently visited by foreigners.

We can only hope that yesterdays unfortunate attacks were the last of it, but we have to be on the look out for retaliations. The security is visibly tighter in shopping malls and other public areas, cars are throughly checked against bombs and people are checked with metal detectors before admitting entry. All this is good, but only make traffic worse and is quite an inconvenience.

Let´s hope things get better soon and no futher incidents happen.

Friday 21 October 2011

First Safari

Kenya is full of wildlife and safari's provide an excellent possibility to view animals in their natural habitat. There are plenty of big and famous game parks such as Maasai Mara (Serengeti on Tanzania side), but we also have a great safari park right around the corner.

The Nairobi National Park is right next to Nairobi city center and airport, south side of the town. The park covers an area of 117.21 square kilometres and is small in comparison to most of Africa's national parks, but it provides plenty to see for one day. The National Park was officially opened in Christmas 1946 although it had been there prior to that, and it was the first national park of East Africa.

Major wildlife attractions at the park are the Black rhino, lion, leopard, cheetah, hyena, buffaloes, Giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, elands, baboons, and hundreds and hundreds of birds.  There are no elephants in this national park, but four of the "Big Five" can be seen here (lions, leopards, buffalo and rhinos).

The best time to go to the park is early in the morning, as most animals including the lions are active then. As it takes about 45 minutes to get there from our home and sun rises at 6:20am, it means getting up at 5 the latest.

We had a great time at the park, we spent almost 7 hours there and it was a constant parade of different animals. Just when you thought you had seen it all something new came up. We did not unfortunately see the lions (apparently they had killed a giraffe the previous night, and must have been having a feast near the corpse) but saw so much it was unreal. And when I say seeing the animals, I mean on close proximity.
It is hard to say which was our favorite. Some of the more rare ones we saw were jackal cubs and of course the rhino. The giraffes, antilopes and zebra's were really cute and entertaining. Baboons and crocodiles wild and crazy. We also saw lizards and a dung beetle pushing a perfect dung ball (plenty of animals droppings everywhere).

We'll definitely visit the park often, so much fun and so close to our home!













Thursday 13 October 2011

Back to the 70's

Although in many ways Kenya is a very modern country, you get almost anything you can get in they US or Finland, it many ways it is also like going to back to when we were kids.

When you go to a grocery store you can buy milk in plastic bags and triangle shaped cartons. I have no clue what the benefit is, as more often than not you see them break or leak. The candy section is filled with P.K. and Juicy Fruit chewing gums and tic tacs among the more global candy like Mars, twix or Cadbury's chocolate. Soft drinks like Coca Cola are predominantly sold in glass bottles, and in fact I saw an ad where they were promoting the benefits of the new plastic bottle. By the way, Coca Cola tastes better here. I don't know why that is, maybe it is the local real sugar they use to make it.

I already wrote in my previous blog how mail is not delivered into your home, but you have to rent a P.O Box in the local post office and then collect it from there. Stamps of course are the good old kind that you lick, you can't find the nowadays more common sticker stamps. Also, when you send a letter abroad you have to remember to lick and stick a blue 'Kenya Airways Par Avion' note on it.

Although in Finland almost all bills are paid online, cheques are still used in many places. Same thing in Kenya, you use them to pay the bills as well as to withdraw money from your account and online banking is available, nothing special here. What reminds of the really old days that some bills you have to pay in person at the service providers office or at the post office. For example I can't pay electricity bill online but have to take cash there in person.

It is refreshing to see kids still play outside. Not with game consoles but with what ever they can find. Seeing kids pushing a wheel with a stick or playing soccer and other games is very common.

Service, although sometimes a bit on the slow side, is available in most places. For example if I need to fill up my car I don't have to do it myself. An attendant will do that for you, and while waiting for the tank to fill up he usually washes the windows and checks the oil and water if needed. I don't think I've seen that this millenium elsewhere.

It is nice to see things that used to be, on one hand it reminds us that change is constant and inevitable and on the other hand it offers an opportunity to remember how things used to be 'the good old days'

Sunday 2 October 2011

Kumbi Kumbi

Last night we saw a insects flying around our house, attracted by the night lights around the house. We didn't think twice of it, but it was clear there were more than normally.

This morning when we woke up, there were literally millions of wings in big piles on the ground and the birds were having a feast eating the insects of the ground as well as catching them in the air. Even the washing machine in the utility room, which conveniently does not have a door, was full of these things. They were flying termites, and the locals here call them Kumbi Kumbi.

Nice swarm outside kitchen
Kumbi Kumbi

The termites had piled up in large swarms here and there, and large amount of them also lay on the ground dead. Apparently they come a few times a year, typically during the rainy season. They come in big swarms, drop their wings and try to form another colony.

In Kenya, and some other countries, they are apparently a delicacy. People collect them by the thousands and then eat them either as they are or fried. Our Australian neighbor has tried them and told us they taste like peanuts, I don't think we'll find out ourselves.

This is the first time we saw these, and hopefully it does not happen too often. Another nice example of the African nature...